There are various categories of acne ranging from mild to cystic nodular acne - Please see your GP if you are at all worried about your skin. They can refer you to a dermatologist who can treat most acne cases successfully.
Importance of maintaining the acid mantle of the skin
All products used on the skin should be pH balanced to complement acid mantle of skin (4.5 – 5.5). Products used on the skin should be tested for their pH value. Although after using alkaline products the acid mantle will gradually replace itself it takes approximately 8 hours to this.
The acid mantle has provides a chemical barrier and a physical barrier. Alkaline skin products e.g. soaps will cause:- Loss of barrier function of the skin resulting in transepidermal water loss (dehydration)
- Bacterial invasion
- Irritants can enter the skin more easily
Ph demonstration: distilled water, pH pencil, ‘mild’ soaps, ajax cleaning powder, pH balanced products. Wet arm and test to show natural pH of skin. Wet other areas of arm and demonstrate the alkalinity of the other products.
Causes of acne
- Genetic
- Retention hyperkeratosis – retaining too many skin cells. There are lamellar granules present in the N.M.f. which produce an enzyme to break down the ‘glue’ between skin cells in order for them to be sloughed off. This also occurs inside the hair follicles as the follicles are lined with epidermal cells.This process sometimes goes wrong due to ageing, hormones, vitamin deficiency and acne.. This leads to congestion in the hair follicles. There are not as many lamellar granules in an acne skin.
- Extra sebaceous glands – can have as many as 3 or 4 glands attached to hair follicle instead of 1. This gives the potential to produce more sebum giving a dull look to the skin.
- Thicker sebum – sits in hair follicles more. Adding more linoleic acid to the diet is helpful to thin the sebum ( found in evening primrose and starflower oils). Linoleic acid is an ‘adaptogen’ helping dry as well as oily skin conditions
- Testosterone – testosterone directly affects the sebaceous glands. An enzyme is present which converts testosterone into di hydro testoserone, a particularly aggressive form of testosterone.
- Bacterial growth – Anaerobic bacteria (proprioni bacterium) reside naturally in base of hair follicle. However, the build up of skin cells, increase in thick sebum allows less air to enter the follicle providing an ideal breeding ground for these bacteria. Sebum is composed of glycerol+fatty acids, the bacteria consume the glycerol which leaves the fatty acids. This gives irritation to the hair follicle.
- More sebum follicles and less hair follicles in acne sufferers – the hair acts a wick to guide sebum and dead skin cells to surface. The absence of a hair means there is a build up of dead skin cells and sebum in the follicle.
- Because of the fullness of the follicle due to this increase in skin cells, sebum, bacteria etc. there is break or ruptures in the follicle wall into the dermis which alerts the immune system. The blood cells push the debris bakci nto the hair follicle and repairs the break in the wall. If the break is high up on the hair follicle this leads to a ‘spot’. If the break is low a membrane surround the area leading to cystic or nodular acne.
Ingredients which aggravate acne
- Isopropyl myristate – this is the worst offender in the myristate group, but other ingredients where the second word is myristate will also aggravate acne. It is found in oil-free preparations and seeps into the follicles causing inflammation.
- Artificial colours – cause ‘cosmetic acne’. They include colourings such as f,d and c dyes. They give sub surface congestion and are found in coloured products. Look for natural colouring ingredients instead such as iron oxides. (Jane Iredale cosmetics are particularly good).
- Lanolin - causes blackheads and milia.
- SD alcohol – dries the skin too severely causing the skin to produce more oil.
Beneficial ingredients
- Benzoyl peroxide – releases oxygen into the hair follicle to stop growth of anaerobic bacteria.
- Triclosan - antimicrobial to directly target the bacteria
- Hydroxy acids- dissolves the intercellular ‘glue’ that holds the surface cells together loosening comedones and is also anti bacterial. Has the ability to penetrate into the hair follicles.
- Microsponges – absorbs excess oil giving a matte finish.
- Botanicals – camphor is a good anti-inflammatory, coneflower has the ability to fight skin infection, balm mint is soothing and anti-inflammatory.
Please seek medical advice if your acne is bothering you in any way. It can often respond really well to medical treatment, so please see your GP
